Swakopmund

18^th August 2010 (Day 8)

We are the first guests at what will be ‘Ocean Villa’ when it opens at the end of the month. Poppy who has been brought in for her first day of work serves us a lovely breakfast in the newly built thatched and partially open air restaurant area. After breakfast we walk the 500 yards or so to the beach where large waves bombard the beach which is overlooked by some very impressive houses all of which have their own individual design. The morning is cold and windy with a very hazy outlook and is reminiscent of Tenby in October.

We take a taxi into town and head for an internet café. It is great that so many people are keeping in touch via e-mail. We also manage to set up the blog which can be followed on www.3worldwanderers.blogspot.com. Of course if you’re reading this then you know that!!

The centre of Swakopmund might perhaps best be described as resembling a picture postcard view of a Bavarian village which is in sharp contrast to the desert scrubland that surrounds it. We wander around enjoying comparing prices and goods available in shops compared to those at home.

A walk to the aquarium is fruitless as it is closed until 2012 but on our walk we realise we will not be short of company from local street traders who are all keen to meet us! Isaac soon realises that he could purchase an identical bowl to one his mum bought for £40 for well under £5. Undeterred by this Michele only bemoans the fact that, due to our luggage restrictions, she could not buy a job lot to take back to the UK and with which she could almost certainly secure the financial future of the Browne family!

As the day draws on the haze lifts and the sun comes out. We spend a couple of hours at the mole which was a failed attempt to build a harbour by German occupiers that was frustrated by the continually shifting sand banks in the area. The mole does, however, provide a section of the beach (known locally as Palm Beach) with protection from the waves and we learn that it attracts swimmers in the late afternoon once the regular morning haze has lifted and the temperature has risen.

Having failed to access the aquarium Isaac is more than disappointed that the ‘only heated swimming pool in Namibia’ has gone one step further and is closed for good! He will have to get used to the icy chill he felt at Rivendell or perhaps venture into the Atlantic off ‘Palm Beach’.

At the end of a long afternoon we enjoy a beer (grapeatizer for Isaac) at Anton’s Café as the sun sets over the Ocean. From our visit to Swakopmund museum the next day we realise that it is one of the original buildings in the development of the town. All in all a very enjoyable day.

19^th August 2010 (Day 9)

An exciting day today, at 4pm our Toyota 4x4 will be delivered to Ocean View and we will suddenly become a lot more mobile. It is with this in mind that we take the decision, after another lovely breakfast served by the seemingly ever cheerful Poppy, to walk to town. Michele is doubtful about the decision from the outset, Isaac on the other hand thinks that it is a marvellous idea for about 20 minutes after which his enthusiasm starts to wane. The walk takes just over an hour, this is not too bad, it is the concern expressed by locals about the potential risks involved that worries Vince (after the event!!!). Ignorance as ever is bliss!

It was an interesting walk, however, with very impressive and to us seemingly architect designed properties on the one side (several of which appeared to come out of a James Bond type film) with the mist and crashing waves on the other side.

We once again visit the internet café and post our first blog of the year. We answer the much valued e-mails and make our way to the museum.

This private museum was more impressive to us than the National Museum in Windhoek. One section clearly identifies the huge influence of the German Colonists at the turn of the century. The more interesting sections chronicle some history and culture of the large range of indigenous tribes that make up the Namibian nation. Sections on archaeological finds in Namibia and Namibian wildlife help to make the visit (at least for Vince and Michele) very interesting.

After the visit to the museum we head back to pick up the car. Isaac’s smile and enthusiasm know no bounds! The car does not disappoint and Isaac and Vince go off and explore, without Isaac they might never have returned!! His observational and directional skills are far better than his dads’!

It Begins

11^th August 2010 (Day 1)

After months of talking, preparation and downsizing it finally begins at 14:55 as the train pulls out of Cardiff Central Station with Vince, Michele and Isaac on board feeling excited and emotional after a number of emotional farewells.

The trip to Reading goes smoothly and then onto the bus for transfer to Heathrow. The transfer is straight forward and the flight, that leaves at 9pm and is 11hours long flies by as everybody sleeps soundly overnight.

Before we realise it we are arriving in Johannesburg. We then take a short transfer (2Hrs) to our destination Windhoek in Namibia arriving at 1pm Thursday 12^th August.

12^th August 2010 (Day 2)

Our transfer picks us up and takes us to our first guest house. We say first as it is the very first of hopefully many but the word also implies that we have booked others, this is not the case, and we have to admit that it is actually the only accommodation that we have booked for the year!

Rivendell Guest House is about 15 minutes’ walk outside of the city centre. We are shown to Room 1. It is spacious and en-suite with a pool just outside the main door. Before we can relax, we need to organise the rest of our time in Namibia. Marietta works in the travel office at the Rivendell site run by ATI travel, she is not optimistic as it is one of the busiest times for Namibian tourism and she expects it to be difficult to book accommodation and transport. (Michele remains very calm despite her previous protestations that we were a tad underprepared!!!) We outline our ideal itinerary and she asks us to call back tomorrow afternoon to see what she has been able to organise. The rest of the day is spent relaxing, before ordering pizza and all jumping into the double bed to watch a DVD. We are in Africa, but it is winter and the first night proves to be very chilly with extra bed clothes needed during the night.

13^th August 2010 (Day 3)

Refreshed we get up early and Isaac heads up for breakfast. Rivendell offers a continental and full English breakfast for N$70, the kitchen is, however, available for any guest to use throughout the day. The pool is freezing but Isaac proves braver than his dad and he takes full advantage.

By mid-morning we decide to head into the city centre. The chill of the night before has disappeared and the temperature is now about 28 C. Rivendell is in a residential area the surrounding houses are large and obviously expensive (in fact we realise that we are directly opposite the Chinese Ambassador’s residence). One of the most striking aspects of the residences is the security. All have high walls and guard dogs, most also have electric fences and private security guards. We are told that (at least in the day light) Windhoek is very safe and we see no reason to doubt this. Our first stop in town is to buy a SIM card, the shop staff could not be more helpful it is the first of numerous occasions on which we receive a very warm and helpful reception. Having obtained the SIM we wander the shops. The next observation is that Europeans are likely to feel immediately at home in Namibia. The colonial past has obviously had a huge influence on the capital the German influence is particularly evident in the architecture and food.

 The temperature would invoke the headline ‘Oh what a scorcher’ in the UK so Isaac is somewhat surprised to visit a bakery advertising ‘Winter Warmer Soup’.

Back at Rivendell Dad cooks pasta and we meet John. John was in the army when Namibia obtained independence and he was involved in training the new Namibian defence army. Having left the army John returned to Britain for a short time, but soon after moved  back to Africa living 6 months in Zimbabwe and the 6 months in Namibia where he writes travel guides on Africa for the Cardboard Box Company. He instantly proves to be knowledgeable, interesting and entertaining company.

14^th August 2010 (Day 4)

We decide to stay at Rivendell today. A good decision as Isaac meets Zach who is starting a holiday travelling around Africa with his grandparents. Whilst mum and dad relax and read Isaac and Zach spend the day in the pool. The day has a major positive when mum and dad meet with Marietta who has managed to organise an itinerary matching almost exactly our wishes, what a relief (Michele manages Vince’s smugness  with fortitude).

In the evening we visit Joe’s Beerhouse (ideal for lovers of meat). Michele goes for fillet and rib eye steak, Isaac has a large burger and Dad has ostrich, oryx and zebra (he recommends the zebra as a very tender cut of meat).

 15^th August 2010 (Day 5)

Off to find an internet café today. In about half an hour using The Lonely Planet Guide and Trip Advisor we have planned our first eight days accommodation in Egypt (lets hope that the Mayfair Hotel Zamalek lives up to it’s reviews!!). Now fancying something to eat we realise that we rely too much on Britain’s 24/7 culture as we find Windhoek largely closed. A helpful police man sends us to Tal Street where we find a lovely café in a community craft centre. Dad has a traditional Namibian coffee made from tree roots. It arrives with a ‘garnish’ of bark that dad mistakenly eats, much to the amusement of the waitress. We next visit the national museum. Much of Namibia’s most turbulent history is recent and must for so many be very raw. It is a tribute to the Namibian people that they appear to have developed such a peaceful and stable country so quickly.

16^th August 2010 (Day 6)

Perhaps one day too long in Windhoek so we decide to spend the day relaxing. Without Isaac’s friend Zach, this involves Dad braving the pool with Isaac. He does so manfully. The evening is spent watching Manchester United beat Newcastle and then to bed.

17^th August 2010 (Day 7)

We are ready to move on now. We are heading to Swakopmund. Our ‘Town Hoppers’ transport picks us up at 2pm and we spend the next 5 hours on the bus looking at the beautiful countryside. 6ft high ant hills and mountains swathed in the most glorious sun setting shadows help the journey to fly by.  We arrive at 74 Termalin street on time at 7pm. The room is great it is en-suite, has a kitchen and the owner delivers us a meal. Tomorrow we start to investigate Swakopmund.