The Journey South

20^th August 2010 (Day 10)

Awake earlier than I would have liked (2:17am) with my first dodgy stomach (ideal when the only toilet is in the bedroom where the three of us are sleeping). I only find out later that Michele is a lighter sleeper than I thought and only good manners stopped her from flinging things at me. (The fact that you can usually hear him through a locked door means that I am unfortunately used to it!! At least it was good training!)

After breakfast Isaac decided to break the car!! Or more specifically he snapped the key for the boot in the lock. At one point this looked like delaying us for a day but the car hire agency directed us to a locksmith who for the grand total of approximately £1.70 produced a new key. Having been to the bank to cash some cheques and for Isaac to change (and then spend on new DVDs) the last of his birthday money we decide to use the car to do a bit of sight-seeing.

The Welwitscha drive is in the northern corner of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. A permit to enter the park can be obtained from the Conservation Office and we pay the N$90 for the three of us. The park is easy to find, we take the B2 (or Trans Kalahari Highway – sorry but how cool is it to say that we have been there!) a few km’s out of Swakop and then turn off along C28. The road in the park is a gravel track and we are glad of the 4x4. One of the first suggested stops on the drive is to look at examples of the local flora and observe how they are adapted to survive with an average yearly rainfall of about 15 mm, often all in one shower and sometimes with no rain for several years. Some of the impact is lost on the Brownes from Wales who feel very much at home in the desert today as it is cold, damp and drizzly. Vince observes that having seen pictures of the bushmen in the desert in very little clothing, today cannot be representative of the normal weather or the locals must often freeze their nads off.  Joking apart the views are spectacular, perhaps the most inspiring is the ‘moon landscape’ a rolling barren area of rocky desert formed by the valleys around the course of the Swakop River (I copied that bit from the guide book!). We continue the drive which ends at a 1500 year old Welwitscha tree (one of the country’s oldest plants which are native and unique to Namibia).

We return to Swakopmund and once again visit the internet café (the ability to remain in contact with friends and relatives on such a regular basis is a huge bonus). Having received and sent e-mails we return to Ocean Villa for cheese sandwiches. Tomorrow we really begin to explore the riches of the Namibian countryside as we begin our journey into the south of the country. Today has certainly wet our appetite for the journeys ahead. 

       

21^st August 2010 (Day 11)

Up early and after breakfast we make an early start for the Corona Guest Farm in Gamesburg. The drive is very beautiful, first along the coast passing high red sand dunes and then cutting in land back almost in the direction of Windhoek across the scrubland of the Namib desert which is very reminiscent of an old spaghetti western. The whole drive along the gravel ‘C’ roads takes about four hours but we pass very few other cars and only about three dwellings. Away from the main towns, of which there are not many, it is incredibly sparsely populated.

Corona is an old cattle farm. It is very isolated with the journey from the farm to the main road being about 18km of very bumpy gravel that takes about 45 minutes to complete. We are met by Klaus the manager who turns out over the next couple of days to be, along with his team, an outstanding host, attentive and yet unobtrusive. He shows us to a very large room just opposite the Bar area that has a bedroom area, kitchen area and sitting room area in which a bed has been made up for Isaac. We are informed that afternoon tea will be served at 3pm followed by a sun downer drive to view the game on the farm followed by gin and tonic in the mountains watching the sun set. How lucky can we be? We are joined on the drive by a Swiss family on a cycling holiday. Corona is 240 square kilometres in size and is home to a large number of game although as luck would have it we see very little. Klaus suspects that this is the result of a windy day which can spread a range of smells and ‘spook’ the game making them nervous to come down from the hills. (I think it is because Vince is very smelly)! Klaus is disappointed at the game we have managed to see but we are pleased to have spotted Kadu, oryx and springbok. We arrive back at 6pm in time to get ready for what turns out to be an exceptional 4 course gourmet meal served in the dining room with most of the food and seasoning having been produced on the farm. It must be said however that Isaac is still struggling with the concept of eating oryx. Full and satisfied the wanderers retreat to their room at what is fast becoming their new bed time of 9pm.

22^nd August 2010 (Day 12)

An early start and hearty breakfast sets up the Wanderers for a desert hike. About an hour’s walk away there is a cave in the cliffs that apparently have some 6000 year old paintings. Isaac is tired and fails to appreciate his dad’s humour, he consequently does not enjoy the outward walk. He rallies when we reach the cliff and having watched his mum and dad negotiate the tricky climb to the cave he follows stating he has not come all this way to watch others see the sights. It is a very strange feeling to look at the paintings and other artefacts lying about in the cave and realise just how long ago they were left there. It must be quite rare that such a spot is to be found unprotected and uncommercialised. The walk back seems quicker and there is an hour or so to relax (Isaac watching the Disney channel!!) before once again afternoon tea and the sun downer drive. We are now the only guests at Corona and Klaus is very apologetic that G&T’s will not be available as the farm is out of tonic he hopes that a bottle of champagne can make up and Vince and Michele, as always uncomplaining, realise that they will just have to make do!!!

The drive is more successful tonight and we see a large number of mountain zebra which are particularly prevalent in the area.

We are again served an excellent meal, this time on the sun terrace before another early night in preparation for the journey from the Namib Desert to the Kalahari.

23^rd August 2010 (Day 13)

 Corona has been a wonderful experience but we are on the move again. An early start as we head to the Kalahari Desert and the Anib lodge. This is very different from the Namib desert and is not a true desert as it receives more rain than a true desert as it receives more than 100mm of rain per year. However, the sand sheet that covers the Kalahari results in virtually no surface water, and evidence suggests that it may once have been much more arid than it is now. The guide book tells us us a better description is that it is a ‘fossil desert’. The drive takes 6 hours but the scenery more than keeps us occupied. Upon arrival we decide to take advantage of another sun downer drive. The scenery is very different from that at Corona. The arid scrub has been replaced by richly red sand dunes and some greenery which we criss cross as we try to spot game; there is much to see including zebra, oryx, springbok and ostrich and the view as the sun sets behind the red dunes is stunning. Despite the excellent drive we feel the Anib lodge does not match Corona.  The experience is a little contrived, rather than being hosted and experiencing Africa, Anib tries to create the African experience and everything seems a little more rushed. Having said this we enjoy our one night stop over and early the next morning we set off for Fish River Canyon.

24^th  August 2010 (Day 14)

Again the scenery is spectacular as we head south to the Fish River Canyon. We arrive at our next destination Cannon Village at 2pm. Our accommodation is a thatched bungalow nestling with several others at the base of some granite hills. They are so well so well constructed environmentally that it is not until you are virtually upon them that you knoe they are there. Truly beautiful! We have two days at Canon Village and so decide to rest for the afternoon and the Cannon village is the ideal location. Nestled in the hills our bungalow affords us fantastic views. Late in the afternoon as mum and dad have coffee Isaac decides to climb the small hill behind the swimming pool. After about 20 minutes mum and dad notice he is still absent and as the sun is about to set Dad sets off to look for him. Isaac, having successfully climbed the small hill has set his sights on its rather larger neighbour, as dad rounds the corner he hears Isaac calling ‘Dad’ and then stating that it appeared to be a lot easier to get up the mountain than it was to get down! With the help of dad Isaac manages the descent just before darkness falls!!! Before dinner we learn to play Owela and Michele experiences a convincing win. Dinner takes the form of a buffet made largely from local produce and yet again we find ourselves turning in for an early night with full stomachs.

25^th  August 2010 (Day 15)

Up early and off to explore the canyon which at 161km long, up to 27km wide and almost 550m is second only in size to the Grand Canyon. As appears to be so often the case in Southern Namibia, despite this being such a potentially major attraction it is unspoilt, hardly developed (for tourism) and we feel we have the breath taking views largely to ourselves.  We head back in the early afternoon and take advantage of the ice cold swimming pool. Isaac once again proves far braver than his dad, he cements his superiority over his father when, with a little help from his mother, he trounces him at Owela.

26^th  August 2010 (Day 16)

This morning we head for the coast. We decide to take the scenic route to our destination, the town of Aus this involves a route that leads along the base of the canyon. Michele as always on top of things suggests that we call in at the Ai Ais rest camp, which houses a spa based around the Ai-Ais hot springs. This proves to be an excellent idea as we find that for non-residents the use of the spa is free. After spending a couple of hours relaxing in both the hot indoor and outdoor pools we set off again for Aus. The greenery around the fish river is in stark contrast to the remainder of the barren landscape and we once again find a beautiful backdrop to another long journey. It is actually the first time we have seen a river flowing in this dry season. The gravel road undulates quite a lot as it winds its way through the base of the Canyon and we do not arrive at the Hotel Bahnhof in Aus until just after dark. The hotel is clean and comfortable and after having some food we sleep well there.

27^th  August 2010 (Day 17)

Our first stop this morning is a Ghost Town Kolmanskop. This is so called after a delivery rider, Kolman, who travelled this route many times before the diamond rush. He was caught in a storm but managed to escaped. His wagon however was stuck on the hill (kop) and thus it became known as Kolman’s hill or Kolmanskop. This is a former diamond mining town which was constructed between 1908 and 1910 and in addition to the residential facilities it boasted shops, a large clubhouse, a skittle alley, an Olympic size salt water swimming pool, a school and a hospital. In its prime 300 adults and 44 children lived in the town, but its lifetime was short with mining operations having largely ceased by 1944 and the town completely deserted by 1959.

Having explored the town we head for the port of Luderitz from where we follow the road around the local peninsula. On this drive we see flamingos, seals and perhaps most surprisingly to us given our location a colony of jackass penguins.

We return to Luderitz and visit the nicely developed waterfront having a drink in a local sea food restaurant before heading back to Aus.  

28^th  August 2010 (Day 18)

This morning we head for the Namtib Biosphere Farm, a working farm only a couple of hours from Aus. Once again we are aware of how sparsely populated the south is passing only three other cars on our journey. We arrive at about 11:30 and are shown to the family chalet. In such isolated spots all resources are precious. Some chalets have solar panels powering a battery to provide hot water and electricity. Our chalet has a couple of electric lights, but our water can only be heated via a fire laid under the water tank each evening. The dining area where all guests sit around one large table with their hosts appears to have no electric supply and light is supplied solely from candles.

12:00 – 2:00pm at the Namtib is siesta and so we read in our rooms. After a good rest we decide to follow the botanical trail, where the owners have marked a path along which are identified various plants and trees. The trail is not easy to follow because at the height of the dry season all the plants have taken on a rather similar appearance!! It is amazing that anything can survive in such dry conditions.

At dinner Isaac is delighted that the owner’s children Isobel and Richard join us. Richard, like Isaac, is 10 and they appear to get along very well indeed. Conversation soon returns to the isolation of farms and guest houses like Namtib, it emerges that the vast majority of children from the south (who go to school) attend boarding school in Windhoek or Swakopmund. Shopping trips are also a major undertaking, with the long drive to and then from a town taking up two full days, the one shopping trip a month normally takes at least four full days.

29^th  August 2010 (Day 19)

Another early start and long drive today as we head for Tsauchab River Camp near Sossusvlei.

We do not get going however until Isaac and his new friend Richard find an injured lamb and together with Richard and his father help to manipulate it back into shape and put a splint on it. What an experience for Isaac!

 An interesting drive in more ways than one, firstly there is plenty of wildlife to see along the way, secondly just having slowed to look for the giraffes that we have been warned to watch out for by road signs the rear driver side passenger window implodes. Fortunately Isaac had just moved away from the window and despite being showered with glass and a little shaken is unhurt. We continue to the River Camp where, with the help of out superb hosts Johan and Nicky, we contact our car rental company who impressively promise to deliver a replacement car by 7am the next morning. Not wanting to drive the car too far we spend the remainder of the afternoon and evening at the camp. Our chalet is a’4x4’ drive away from reception. Again the chalet has lights but no electrical points and water is heated via a fire. Darts, pool and a swimming pool are available at reception and we relax here before change for an excellent dinner. Tsauchab River Camp is a lovely place to stay with helpful and interesting staff. Johan the owner seems to be very active in addition to fixing passing motors experiencing a range of problems, hiking the beautiful landscape and running the camp he has produced a large amount of impressive iron Art work!!

30^th  August 2010 (Day 20)

We drive to reception for 7am and as good as their word we find that the rental company have a replacement car waiting for us. The car had been driven from Windhoek at 3 am to be ready for us at 7 (very impressive!!). We head off early in the new car for Sossusvelei an area on the edge of the Namib Naukluft Park famed for enormous apricot dunes, real picture postcard stuff and my idea of a classic desert landscape. We obtain a permit for the park (the guard who sells us the permit is obviously a keen Manchester United supporter and seems delighted that we are from the same country as Ryan Giggs). We then head for Dune 45, considered by many to be one of the most photogenic. Isaac being Isaac decides that he has to climb the dune and sets off enthusiastically, followed at a much more modest pace by mum and dad. Isaac completes the tough ascent impressively and has to wait some time for mum and dad to join him at the top. From a distance the dunes are the impressive apricot colour already referred to, upon closer inspection they contain many black particles which we use a magnet to show are probably iron particles mixed in with the sand. I am surprised after we descend the dune (Isaac at great speed running down the steepest slope) that the dune looks to be the same size as when we started our ascent given the amount of sand in our shoes and stuck to our sun creamed bodies.

The last 5km of the road into the park is suitable for 4X4 vehicles only, Vince is confident that he can get through as we set off, Michele and Isaac are also confident (albeit of a different outcome) and their confidence proves to be well founded as we soon become hopelessly stuck in the sand. The local drivers show great delight in helping us from our predicament and with their help we reach the end of the road to view a large silvery white pan of fine dried mud surrounded by the dunes which stretch up to 300m high. Very picturesque, but for a 10 Yr old boy this view does not give the same thrill as climbing the dunes and then running at break neck speed down the steepest slope. On the way back we decide to visit the Sesriem Canyon, which is impressive but on a much smaller scale than Fish River. It was carved by the Tsauchab River and the early settlers used to gather water here using six lengths of hide rope (riems) tied together – hence ses riems. The scale means that it is easily possible to climb down into the canyon which Isaac does (with relish). When after a very panicky half an hour mum and dad eventually find Isaac he readily confirms that he has learned a few lessons: he should stay within sight of mum and dad; the sides of canyon walls can look very similar making it easy to get lost and once they feel lost 10 Yr old’s can make poor decisions like pressing on regardless and deciding to climb out of the canyon on a different side and at a different place to where they climbed in. Valuable lessons learned by everybody!! An enjoyable day, but a relief to get back to camp for a shower and another superb meal.

FOUND!!!!!

  31^st   August 2010 (Day 21)

Apple pie maker

Apple pie eater

After breakfast and a very early game of pool it is off to Barchan Dunes Retreat (the home of tourists). On route we visit ‘the must stop town’ of Solitaire. We are surprised at the label ‘Town’ as we can only identify a few homes, a petrol station/shop, a restaurant open 12 – 3 and a bakery. Having visited the bakery we readily agree with the label ‘must stop’. The bakery has a large appetising selection of cakes and savoury goods. Isaac starts with a frankfurter type sausage roll and then we share a very large slice of apple crumble. This really is a must stop.

We are full board at the Barchan Dunes but after the visit to Solitaire we struggle with our lunch of open cheese sandwiches. To build up an appetite for dinner we scale the hill at the side of the retreat. This is surprisingly difficult given the heat and the very large number of flies that decide to join us but the strategy works and we all eat everything put in front of us at dinner, which includes our first taste of Springbok. The enthusiastic way in which we go about tackling our dinner is, I think fair to say, a decision we later regret. Having said that we sleep soundly and in the morning tackle a 6km walk across the retreat. Again the heat and the flies make the walk a little less than enjoyable and we are glad to arrive back at our chalet. This, however, proves to be the last bit of good cheer we enjoy for some considerable time as firstly Isaac, followed by mum and finally dad succumb to terrible bouts of vomiting and diarrhoea. During the long night (details not included for the benefit of squeamish) Isaac has by far of the worst of it and as concern for him mounts we become aware of some of the problems in being so isolated. Fortunately, we improve slightly by morning though none of us are ready to tackle food for another day.

1^st   September 2010 (Day 22)

We meet one of the other couples who ate with us on our first night at Barchan Dunes early the next morning and find that they have experienced similar problems!!!

We decide to leave as soon as possible and get back to Swakopmund to finish the southern section of our trip. We are looking forward to being in a town again and particularly to being able to contact friends and relatives as we have had virtually no internet connection or phone signal since heading south.

The views are again spectacular but the condition of the gravel roads are, given the state of our stomachs, of more concern to us. We are certainly glad to hit Walvis Bay and especially tarmac. Disappointment on the trip from Walvis Bay to Swakupmund as we stop to book Isaac in for dune boarding we are informed that he is too young, this coupled with his still dodgy stomach leads to a very disappointed 10 Yr old!!

We arrive in Swakupmond and head for the internet café to reacquaint ourselves with the outside world. On the way a local man tries to steal goods from Michele’s bag, her reaction leaves him a quivering wreck but the incident perhaps explains the loss of a bracelet that Michele has been looking for since our last stop in the town. We return to Ocean Villa by 4pm to meet Linda’s niece and after cheese on toast (largely untouched by Isaac who is still feeling the effects of Barchan Dune we are in bed watching a DVD by 6pm. Michele is last to dose at about 6:30 as we catch up on the missed sleep from the night of the shared toilet.

 2^nd   September 2010 (Day 23)

Breakfast at 8:30 but we are still not able to do it justice and so we decide a rest day is called for. Isaac returns to bed and watches 4385 separate films whilst mum and dad potter watching some films with him and catching up on their diaries. A pizza is bought at 5pm and Isaac successfully manages a slice before returning to bed closely followed by mum and dad. The promise of Rocky and sleep are very attractive.