The Journey North

4^th     September 2010 (Day 25)

None of us lasted long with Rocky and so before we get up we once again watch him narrowly loose to Apollo Creed. We then head to the internet café where we spend several hours updating the blog and catching up on e-mails. (We are aware that Beth and Tom start secondary school in two days and want to wish them luck.) Swakupmund largely closes at mid day on a Saturday but after some aimless walking we find the local cinema is showing the latest Shrek film which helps to occupy a very enjoyable couple of hours. I would say that we have an early night but 8:30 is no longer early rather the norm!

5^th     September 2010 (Day 26)

At least early to bed means early to rise and so we are up, packed and ready to head north bright and early (actually a good job as we find out later in the day that the clocks have moved forward).

Swakopmund is once again cold and damp but it is not long before we head back into the sun. We do, however, notice a difference in that we are surrounded by more plants, grass and warthogs. At first each new sighting is met with a screech of brakes and a scramble for cameras but as was the case with the likes of zebras, Kudu’s, Sprinboks and oryx etc we soon become blasé about our ugly little friends. We also become aware of the increased population density meaning we pass through more towns and just generally see a lot more people. Our journey ends in the town of Omaruru at what is probably our plushest stop to date. Our room at the Kashana Hotel is split level and contains a large flat screen TV. Isaac is slightly disappointed with the choice of channels but approves of his loft space! We take a short drive to explore Omaruru but soon return and enjoy some very nice food (not game!!) before retiring to bed where Vince avidly watches ESPN Classics and becomes a world expert on the 2005 Wimbledon Championships.

6^th     September 2010 (Day 27)

Today we head for the Waterberg National Park. On the way, however, we take a detour to the CCF (Cheetah Conservation Fund) which was set up in 1990 to help preserve Namibia’s large but at the time dwindling cheetah population. Cheetahs’ numbers have come under threat due to the difficulty they have competing with larger predators on nature reserves and with farmers killing them off on their land. The CCF appears to be a success story. We arrive just in time to take a guided drive around the female enclosure (males and females are separated as breeding in captivity is not allowed in Namibia). We see five beautiful animals. After the drive we take a walking tour of the sight and then watch feeding time. The females are very calm but the males are far more competitive over their food. We have the video camera at the ready as the wardens lay out the food right in front of us out but unfortunately we didn’t capture the moment as we jumped so high when they raced towards us despite the fact they we were safe behind the fence that we nearly dropped the camera!

When we head off for Waterberg Vince is pulled over by a young policeman in Otjiwarongo for apparently not slowing at a stop sign. The policeman is very friendly, finding the whole incident highly amusing and he obviously struggles not to break into hysterical laughter. The Browne’s find the incident less amusing!!

After the unscheduled stop we arrive in the Waterberg national park at about 4pm and are directed to a lovely chalet mid-way up the 200m escarpment that represents the Waterberg Plateau, which is an impressive sandstone plateau that dominates the area. Sunrise at the top of the plateau has been described by some who have seen it as one of the most beautiful sights in the world and we do not intend to miss it. We, therefore, take a quick dip in the murky pool (well the boys do, Michele keeps up the tradition of refusing anything cold, especially when she can’t see the bottom), and after food head back to the chalet for an early night.

 7^th     September 2010 (Day 28)

Vince wakes Michele and Isaac at 5:30 am with a cup of tea and we are all ready to leave the chalet by 6:00 am only it is still far too dark to see anything. Having delayed our departure by 10 mins we set off regardless using torches. The climb to the top of the plateau is not easy but with Isaac setting an impressive lead we make the top before sunrise and are surprised to be the only people at the top.  We are able to confirm  that the breath taking sunrise is truly spectacular. The descent is far easier than the ascent and we enjoy breakfast more than any we have had so far!!

The remainder of the day is a bit of an anti-climax. Vince surprises himself because having read about the 45 species of snake in the area he still agrees to a hike with Isaac (who thinks his dad is joking about the snakes). We also enjoy watching the baboons messing around with each other.

Waterberg is a beautiful place but our excitement is growing as we move closer to the Etosha Game reserve.

8^th     September 2010 (Day 29)

A long drive today and we take most of the day to reach Sachessenheim Guest farm which is only a few kilometres from the gates into Etosha. The other guests prove to be very interesting but our minds are on the morning. We order breakfast boxes and again plan for an early start as the gates to Etosha open at sunrise.

9^th     September 2010 (Day 30)

'African Zebra Crossing!'

For the second time in 3 days Vince wakes the family at 5:30 am and we are the first at the gates to Etosha before sunrise. Etosha is huge, a road of a couple of hundred kilometres runs from the east to the centre of the reserve giving access to several of the waterholes that the animals visit. At the first waterhole we visit we see some Jackals to our left feeding on the carcass of an unidentifiable animal. We pull up next to the scene and suddenly Vince makes everybody jump as he gasps so loud when, just to our right, he notices the pride of lions obviously responsible for the kill. We drive slowly through the park seeing large groups of Zebra, Kudu, Oryx, Springbok and Wildebeest. The joke of the day is made by Isaac who suddenly announces as a group of Zebra cross the road in front of our car “look an African zebra crossing”. The biggest shock of the morning comes when we begin to spot quite a large number of giraffes. It may be the sheer height and elegance of the animals but it might just be that they are so different from any animals that we normally might come into contact with.

We are due to stay the night at Okaukuejo which is the administrative centre of the park but more importantly to us looks onto one of the major watering holes in the reserve where people can sit and watch the wildlife who come to drink all day and all night as it is floodlit (although the animals do not appear to pay much attention to this. We arrive at Okaukuejo at about 2pm and are shown to a very nice family room, or rather bungalow. Vince and Isaac  head to find the waterhole which they find to be only a few metres behind a small wall, and the first thing that they observe as the waterhole comes into sight are the two massive heads of the elephants that are enjoying the water. 

Okaukuejo is surrounded by game in very large numbers for the rest of the day and we sit back and try to take it all in (Isaac also makes full use of the pool which offers welcome relief from the heat). The major ‘new’ sightings for us are rhinos who appear in two groups firstly a mother and child at about sunset and then an hour or so later two more appear and they spend their time drinking and then sparring with each other. The lights almost create a stage of the watering hole and sitting in the dark watching large numbers of big game appear from and then disappearing back into the surrounding darkness creates a magical spectacle

10^th     September 2010 (Day 31)

After a late night Michele is back at the waterhole well before dawn, soon followed by Vince and Isaac as the pageant of the night before continues. We take a break for breakfast and then visit the office to consult the sightings book (where visitors report type, location, numbers and timing of the sightings that they have made). We are interested to read that a fairly large pride of lions has been spotted in the nearby waterhole of Okondeka and when we take a drive over we manage to site the pride moving across the top of a small rise overlooking the water. A large tower at Okaukuejo gives very good views of the surrounding area and from here we manage to spot some elephants apparently making their way towards us. We drive out to watch them and then later are back at the watering hole when one arrives. Later in the day six more arrive and, after one charges and apparently scares off two of the others, he becomes involved in an impressive 2-3 hour stand-off with one of the other males.  

We leave the park late in the afternoon stopping just outside in the Etosha Safari Lodge, but just before reaching the southerly Anderson Gate we spot two nearby lions who have obviously just killed a Zebra. Having spoken to a number of people who have visited the park it is clear that we have been very lucky in what has been a relatively short visit.

11^th     September 2010 (Day 32)

We do not consider today’s drive to be long but it takes us 4 hours, (an indication of the long journeys involved in this trip). We arrive at Rustic Toko Lodge at 2pm and then waste the rest of the day deciding to visit a cheetah park that turns out to be operated by one of the most unhelpful women in Namibia who sends us away apparently because she cannot be bothered to open up (this behaviour is in complete contrast to any other that we have come across as every person we have met up to now has been cheerful and helpful).

12^th     September 2010 (Day 33)

At breakfast today we over hear a Belgian couple planning to visit a nearby Himba village the inhabitants of which are apparently happy to have a guide tour the village with visitors at 9 am each day. We rush to pack and then tag along. The Himbas are still a nomadic tribe of bushmen whose most famous image is probably that of the ochre coloured women of the tribe. They are the tribe in Namibia who have most resisted modernisation. The Himba women and children were very interested in Isaac and were also keen to have their pictures taken as they spend a lot of time decorating their hair and bodies but with the absence of mirrors do not have good opportunities to see the results of their efforts very often. The Himba people sleep in very small mud huts. It was interesting to learn, however, that they were confused by our bigger houses as life is to be lived outdoors. They also have difficulty understanding why we would grow things outside our houses to look at rather than eat! These people live in very sparse surroundings and it brings home just how many luxuries we enjoy.

We leave the village mid-morning and head for Xaragu camp via the Grootberg Pass. At the top of the pass we notice signs to a lodge at the highest point of the pass. We head for the lodge but are chased by a young man who flags us down to say that if we are to attempt to drive up we will need to put on the 4 wheel drive and ‘diff lock’. He is not joking as the ascent seems almost vertical but the effort is worth it as the views from the lodge match Waterburg, with the table top mountains overlooking a spectacular valley (containing elephants, rhinos and big cats) that leads over 150km to the sea.

We are now in Damara land. The Damara tribe were once bushmen (nomadic hunter gatherers) but unlike the Himba the tribe settled to a farming existence. As we leave the lodge we pass through a number of Damara conservancy regions, which are regions of land that were returned to the locals often from Africaan farmers in the 1960’s. The north is more densely populated than the south and we are no longer in the position of not seeing any evidence of people for hundreds of kilometres. What we now see, however, again highlights what a privileged existence we enjoy. The majority of buildings are mud huts or made from sheets of corrugated iron (though some do have satellite dishes). The most common form of transport seems to be donkey and trap and the people rely on the rearing of goats and cattle for their lively hood. We also find it interesting to consider the other problems associated with living in this area. The animals that cause the most difficulties for the locals are elephants and baboons. Elephants are just so big that they are dangerous, they can easily knock down people’s homes if they get inquisitive, whilst baboons are a nuisance generally but are also capable of killing the goats. Our major concerns are not major concerns for the loca; big cats and snakes avoid people if at all possible, whilst scorpions tend only to appear at night.

With thoughts of night time scorpions and snakes Vince is more than a little concerned to find we are camping at our next destination! When we arrive the temperature in the tent is well into the 40’s and we have had a long day. Vince’s humour is only lifted at the prospect of Michele having to use the open air (‘en suite’) toilet and shower!

13^th     September 2010 (Day 33)

An early start for the Petrified Forest. We see the fossilised remains of trees that were deposited 250 million years ago where the trees cells have been replaced by silica and consequently become rock. A really interesting and quite strange sight.

After this we visit Twyfelfontein where a local guide escorts us around the ancient hillside showing us examples of rock carvings completed thousands of years ago. The hike is 45 minutes long, enough to show us that summer really has started in Africa. We then visit the ‘burnt’ mountain apparently named because the sun shine over the hills can give the impression of flames moving over the mountain. The spectacle, however, is lost on us as all we can see is a black hill not unlike some slagheaps you may see amongst the Welsh valleys!

Back to the tent where we all enjoy a refreshing shower and Vince and Isaac’s comments about being back at the waterhole when Michele showers sets them off into fits of giggles!  Another night under canvas, but once again we sleep very well.

14^th     September 2010 (Day 34)

Today we visit the highest mountain in Namibia – Brandberg, at which can be found some very famous rock art. The most famous image is of The White Lady. Again a local guide takes us on the 1⅟2 hour hike. On the way he tells us how after work he enjoys running 50km under the moon as well as competition hiking!!! (Isaac whispers that perhaps we should have asked for the fat guide eating the pie in the corner!) Our guide’s pace indicates that he is not joking and lives up to our worst expectations and we struggle in the heat to keep up.  It is worth the sweat though, at least Vince and Michele think so, as the guide talks us through the White Lady (or rather Man) and numerous other artwork painted by the bushmen 2,000-6,000 years ago.

After the hike we just want to get to our next accommodation, The White Lady B&B in Uis, and rest! It is unclear from our booking whether dinner is included. We ask and the owner tells us that dinner is included and that we should go to the local restaurant where a table will have been booked for us and at the end of the meal simply sign the bill. We do this and have a lovely meal, at the end, however, the restaurant claim to have no knowledge of the arrangement! Isaac finds the ensuing argument uncomfortable and at the time of writing we are still in dispute with the B&B.

On a more positive note Uis is a small town and we have access to electricity, phone credit and a mobile signal which means that Isaac can speak to Nanny Bulmer and Nanny and Gampy Browne for the first time in well over a week, which he thoroughly enjoys as he misses them all so much.

15^th     September 2010 (Day 35)

After the previous night’s argument, relations at the B&B are strained and so we are happy to leave early heading for Swakopmund again. On the way we call to see the massive seal colony at Cape Cross as well as photographing one of the many ships that have been wrecked over the years along the rugged coast line (hence the name Skeleton Coast). Whilst photographing the boat a group of young lads approach trying to sell us some of the many gem stones that can be found lying about the area. At first we are reluctant to enter into conversation with them, however, as we walk on the beach it appears from a small collection of blankets and towels that the boys might actually sleep rough there. When we do speak to the boys and they realise we do not want to buy any gems they ask to exchange them for food and drink. Fortunately we are able to give them bread, biscuits and water for which they are extremely grateful!! They also insist on giving us a small gem.

On arriving back in Swakopmund we return our rented 4X4 and we realise that the Namibian section of our adventure is all but at an end. As our thoughts turn to Egypt we plan to spend tomorrow catching up on e-mails etc. before an early night followed by an early start as we will be picked up for the long bus ride back to Windhoek and then a taxi to the airport. 

     

The sun sets on our time in Namibia where we have had a fantastic time.

  

The Journey South

20^th August 2010 (Day 10)

Awake earlier than I would have liked (2:17am) with my first dodgy stomach (ideal when the only toilet is in the bedroom where the three of us are sleeping). I only find out later that Michele is a lighter sleeper than I thought and only good manners stopped her from flinging things at me. (The fact that you can usually hear him through a locked door means that I am unfortunately used to it!! At least it was good training!)

After breakfast Isaac decided to break the car!! Or more specifically he snapped the key for the boot in the lock. At one point this looked like delaying us for a day but the car hire agency directed us to a locksmith who for the grand total of approximately £1.70 produced a new key. Having been to the bank to cash some cheques and for Isaac to change (and then spend on new DVDs) the last of his birthday money we decide to use the car to do a bit of sight-seeing.

The Welwitscha drive is in the northern corner of the Namib-Naukluft National Park. A permit to enter the park can be obtained from the Conservation Office and we pay the N$90 for the three of us. The park is easy to find, we take the B2 (or Trans Kalahari Highway – sorry but how cool is it to say that we have been there!) a few km’s out of Swakop and then turn off along C28. The road in the park is a gravel track and we are glad of the 4x4. One of the first suggested stops on the drive is to look at examples of the local flora and observe how they are adapted to survive with an average yearly rainfall of about 15 mm, often all in one shower and sometimes with no rain for several years. Some of the impact is lost on the Brownes from Wales who feel very much at home in the desert today as it is cold, damp and drizzly. Vince observes that having seen pictures of the bushmen in the desert in very little clothing, today cannot be representative of the normal weather or the locals must often freeze their nads off.  Joking apart the views are spectacular, perhaps the most inspiring is the ‘moon landscape’ a rolling barren area of rocky desert formed by the valleys around the course of the Swakop River (I copied that bit from the guide book!). We continue the drive which ends at a 1500 year old Welwitscha tree (one of the country’s oldest plants which are native and unique to Namibia).

We return to Swakopmund and once again visit the internet café (the ability to remain in contact with friends and relatives on such a regular basis is a huge bonus). Having received and sent e-mails we return to Ocean Villa for cheese sandwiches. Tomorrow we really begin to explore the riches of the Namibian countryside as we begin our journey into the south of the country. Today has certainly wet our appetite for the journeys ahead. 

       

21^st August 2010 (Day 11)

Up early and after breakfast we make an early start for the Corona Guest Farm in Gamesburg. The drive is very beautiful, first along the coast passing high red sand dunes and then cutting in land back almost in the direction of Windhoek across the scrubland of the Namib desert which is very reminiscent of an old spaghetti western. The whole drive along the gravel ‘C’ roads takes about four hours but we pass very few other cars and only about three dwellings. Away from the main towns, of which there are not many, it is incredibly sparsely populated.

Corona is an old cattle farm. It is very isolated with the journey from the farm to the main road being about 18km of very bumpy gravel that takes about 45 minutes to complete. We are met by Klaus the manager who turns out over the next couple of days to be, along with his team, an outstanding host, attentive and yet unobtrusive. He shows us to a very large room just opposite the Bar area that has a bedroom area, kitchen area and sitting room area in which a bed has been made up for Isaac. We are informed that afternoon tea will be served at 3pm followed by a sun downer drive to view the game on the farm followed by gin and tonic in the mountains watching the sun set. How lucky can we be? We are joined on the drive by a Swiss family on a cycling holiday. Corona is 240 square kilometres in size and is home to a large number of game although as luck would have it we see very little. Klaus suspects that this is the result of a windy day which can spread a range of smells and ‘spook’ the game making them nervous to come down from the hills. (I think it is because Vince is very smelly)! Klaus is disappointed at the game we have managed to see but we are pleased to have spotted Kadu, oryx and springbok. We arrive back at 6pm in time to get ready for what turns out to be an exceptional 4 course gourmet meal served in the dining room with most of the food and seasoning having been produced on the farm. It must be said however that Isaac is still struggling with the concept of eating oryx. Full and satisfied the wanderers retreat to their room at what is fast becoming their new bed time of 9pm.

22^nd August 2010 (Day 12)

An early start and hearty breakfast sets up the Wanderers for a desert hike. About an hour’s walk away there is a cave in the cliffs that apparently have some 6000 year old paintings. Isaac is tired and fails to appreciate his dad’s humour, he consequently does not enjoy the outward walk. He rallies when we reach the cliff and having watched his mum and dad negotiate the tricky climb to the cave he follows stating he has not come all this way to watch others see the sights. It is a very strange feeling to look at the paintings and other artefacts lying about in the cave and realise just how long ago they were left there. It must be quite rare that such a spot is to be found unprotected and uncommercialised. The walk back seems quicker and there is an hour or so to relax (Isaac watching the Disney channel!!) before once again afternoon tea and the sun downer drive. We are now the only guests at Corona and Klaus is very apologetic that G&T’s will not be available as the farm is out of tonic he hopes that a bottle of champagne can make up and Vince and Michele, as always uncomplaining, realise that they will just have to make do!!!

The drive is more successful tonight and we see a large number of mountain zebra which are particularly prevalent in the area.

We are again served an excellent meal, this time on the sun terrace before another early night in preparation for the journey from the Namib Desert to the Kalahari.

23^rd August 2010 (Day 13)

 Corona has been a wonderful experience but we are on the move again. An early start as we head to the Kalahari Desert and the Anib lodge. This is very different from the Namib desert and is not a true desert as it receives more rain than a true desert as it receives more than 100mm of rain per year. However, the sand sheet that covers the Kalahari results in virtually no surface water, and evidence suggests that it may once have been much more arid than it is now. The guide book tells us us a better description is that it is a ‘fossil desert’. The drive takes 6 hours but the scenery more than keeps us occupied. Upon arrival we decide to take advantage of another sun downer drive. The scenery is very different from that at Corona. The arid scrub has been replaced by richly red sand dunes and some greenery which we criss cross as we try to spot game; there is much to see including zebra, oryx, springbok and ostrich and the view as the sun sets behind the red dunes is stunning. Despite the excellent drive we feel the Anib lodge does not match Corona.  The experience is a little contrived, rather than being hosted and experiencing Africa, Anib tries to create the African experience and everything seems a little more rushed. Having said this we enjoy our one night stop over and early the next morning we set off for Fish River Canyon.

24^th  August 2010 (Day 14)

Again the scenery is spectacular as we head south to the Fish River Canyon. We arrive at our next destination Cannon Village at 2pm. Our accommodation is a thatched bungalow nestling with several others at the base of some granite hills. They are so well so well constructed environmentally that it is not until you are virtually upon them that you knoe they are there. Truly beautiful! We have two days at Canon Village and so decide to rest for the afternoon and the Cannon village is the ideal location. Nestled in the hills our bungalow affords us fantastic views. Late in the afternoon as mum and dad have coffee Isaac decides to climb the small hill behind the swimming pool. After about 20 minutes mum and dad notice he is still absent and as the sun is about to set Dad sets off to look for him. Isaac, having successfully climbed the small hill has set his sights on its rather larger neighbour, as dad rounds the corner he hears Isaac calling ‘Dad’ and then stating that it appeared to be a lot easier to get up the mountain than it was to get down! With the help of dad Isaac manages the descent just before darkness falls!!! Before dinner we learn to play Owela and Michele experiences a convincing win. Dinner takes the form of a buffet made largely from local produce and yet again we find ourselves turning in for an early night with full stomachs.

25^th  August 2010 (Day 15)

Up early and off to explore the canyon which at 161km long, up to 27km wide and almost 550m is second only in size to the Grand Canyon. As appears to be so often the case in Southern Namibia, despite this being such a potentially major attraction it is unspoilt, hardly developed (for tourism) and we feel we have the breath taking views largely to ourselves.  We head back in the early afternoon and take advantage of the ice cold swimming pool. Isaac once again proves far braver than his dad, he cements his superiority over his father when, with a little help from his mother, he trounces him at Owela.

26^th  August 2010 (Day 16)

This morning we head for the coast. We decide to take the scenic route to our destination, the town of Aus this involves a route that leads along the base of the canyon. Michele as always on top of things suggests that we call in at the Ai Ais rest camp, which houses a spa based around the Ai-Ais hot springs. This proves to be an excellent idea as we find that for non-residents the use of the spa is free. After spending a couple of hours relaxing in both the hot indoor and outdoor pools we set off again for Aus. The greenery around the fish river is in stark contrast to the remainder of the barren landscape and we once again find a beautiful backdrop to another long journey. It is actually the first time we have seen a river flowing in this dry season. The gravel road undulates quite a lot as it winds its way through the base of the Canyon and we do not arrive at the Hotel Bahnhof in Aus until just after dark. The hotel is clean and comfortable and after having some food we sleep well there.

27^th  August 2010 (Day 17)

Our first stop this morning is a Ghost Town Kolmanskop. This is so called after a delivery rider, Kolman, who travelled this route many times before the diamond rush. He was caught in a storm but managed to escaped. His wagon however was stuck on the hill (kop) and thus it became known as Kolman’s hill or Kolmanskop. This is a former diamond mining town which was constructed between 1908 and 1910 and in addition to the residential facilities it boasted shops, a large clubhouse, a skittle alley, an Olympic size salt water swimming pool, a school and a hospital. In its prime 300 adults and 44 children lived in the town, but its lifetime was short with mining operations having largely ceased by 1944 and the town completely deserted by 1959.

Having explored the town we head for the port of Luderitz from where we follow the road around the local peninsula. On this drive we see flamingos, seals and perhaps most surprisingly to us given our location a colony of jackass penguins.

We return to Luderitz and visit the nicely developed waterfront having a drink in a local sea food restaurant before heading back to Aus.  

28^th  August 2010 (Day 18)

This morning we head for the Namtib Biosphere Farm, a working farm only a couple of hours from Aus. Once again we are aware of how sparsely populated the south is passing only three other cars on our journey. We arrive at about 11:30 and are shown to the family chalet. In such isolated spots all resources are precious. Some chalets have solar panels powering a battery to provide hot water and electricity. Our chalet has a couple of electric lights, but our water can only be heated via a fire laid under the water tank each evening. The dining area where all guests sit around one large table with their hosts appears to have no electric supply and light is supplied solely from candles.

12:00 – 2:00pm at the Namtib is siesta and so we read in our rooms. After a good rest we decide to follow the botanical trail, where the owners have marked a path along which are identified various plants and trees. The trail is not easy to follow because at the height of the dry season all the plants have taken on a rather similar appearance!! It is amazing that anything can survive in such dry conditions.

At dinner Isaac is delighted that the owner’s children Isobel and Richard join us. Richard, like Isaac, is 10 and they appear to get along very well indeed. Conversation soon returns to the isolation of farms and guest houses like Namtib, it emerges that the vast majority of children from the south (who go to school) attend boarding school in Windhoek or Swakopmund. Shopping trips are also a major undertaking, with the long drive to and then from a town taking up two full days, the one shopping trip a month normally takes at least four full days.

29^th  August 2010 (Day 19)

Another early start and long drive today as we head for Tsauchab River Camp near Sossusvlei.

We do not get going however until Isaac and his new friend Richard find an injured lamb and together with Richard and his father help to manipulate it back into shape and put a splint on it. What an experience for Isaac!

 An interesting drive in more ways than one, firstly there is plenty of wildlife to see along the way, secondly just having slowed to look for the giraffes that we have been warned to watch out for by road signs the rear driver side passenger window implodes. Fortunately Isaac had just moved away from the window and despite being showered with glass and a little shaken is unhurt. We continue to the River Camp where, with the help of out superb hosts Johan and Nicky, we contact our car rental company who impressively promise to deliver a replacement car by 7am the next morning. Not wanting to drive the car too far we spend the remainder of the afternoon and evening at the camp. Our chalet is a’4x4’ drive away from reception. Again the chalet has lights but no electrical points and water is heated via a fire. Darts, pool and a swimming pool are available at reception and we relax here before change for an excellent dinner. Tsauchab River Camp is a lovely place to stay with helpful and interesting staff. Johan the owner seems to be very active in addition to fixing passing motors experiencing a range of problems, hiking the beautiful landscape and running the camp he has produced a large amount of impressive iron Art work!!

30^th  August 2010 (Day 20)

We drive to reception for 7am and as good as their word we find that the rental company have a replacement car waiting for us. The car had been driven from Windhoek at 3 am to be ready for us at 7 (very impressive!!). We head off early in the new car for Sossusvelei an area on the edge of the Namib Naukluft Park famed for enormous apricot dunes, real picture postcard stuff and my idea of a classic desert landscape. We obtain a permit for the park (the guard who sells us the permit is obviously a keen Manchester United supporter and seems delighted that we are from the same country as Ryan Giggs). We then head for Dune 45, considered by many to be one of the most photogenic. Isaac being Isaac decides that he has to climb the dune and sets off enthusiastically, followed at a much more modest pace by mum and dad. Isaac completes the tough ascent impressively and has to wait some time for mum and dad to join him at the top. From a distance the dunes are the impressive apricot colour already referred to, upon closer inspection they contain many black particles which we use a magnet to show are probably iron particles mixed in with the sand. I am surprised after we descend the dune (Isaac at great speed running down the steepest slope) that the dune looks to be the same size as when we started our ascent given the amount of sand in our shoes and stuck to our sun creamed bodies.

The last 5km of the road into the park is suitable for 4X4 vehicles only, Vince is confident that he can get through as we set off, Michele and Isaac are also confident (albeit of a different outcome) and their confidence proves to be well founded as we soon become hopelessly stuck in the sand. The local drivers show great delight in helping us from our predicament and with their help we reach the end of the road to view a large silvery white pan of fine dried mud surrounded by the dunes which stretch up to 300m high. Very picturesque, but for a 10 Yr old boy this view does not give the same thrill as climbing the dunes and then running at break neck speed down the steepest slope. On the way back we decide to visit the Sesriem Canyon, which is impressive but on a much smaller scale than Fish River. It was carved by the Tsauchab River and the early settlers used to gather water here using six lengths of hide rope (riems) tied together – hence ses riems. The scale means that it is easily possible to climb down into the canyon which Isaac does (with relish). When after a very panicky half an hour mum and dad eventually find Isaac he readily confirms that he has learned a few lessons: he should stay within sight of mum and dad; the sides of canyon walls can look very similar making it easy to get lost and once they feel lost 10 Yr old’s can make poor decisions like pressing on regardless and deciding to climb out of the canyon on a different side and at a different place to where they climbed in. Valuable lessons learned by everybody!! An enjoyable day, but a relief to get back to camp for a shower and another superb meal.

FOUND!!!!!

  31^st   August 2010 (Day 21)

Apple pie maker

Apple pie eater

After breakfast and a very early game of pool it is off to Barchan Dunes Retreat (the home of tourists). On route we visit ‘the must stop town’ of Solitaire. We are surprised at the label ‘Town’ as we can only identify a few homes, a petrol station/shop, a restaurant open 12 – 3 and a bakery. Having visited the bakery we readily agree with the label ‘must stop’. The bakery has a large appetising selection of cakes and savoury goods. Isaac starts with a frankfurter type sausage roll and then we share a very large slice of apple crumble. This really is a must stop.

We are full board at the Barchan Dunes but after the visit to Solitaire we struggle with our lunch of open cheese sandwiches. To build up an appetite for dinner we scale the hill at the side of the retreat. This is surprisingly difficult given the heat and the very large number of flies that decide to join us but the strategy works and we all eat everything put in front of us at dinner, which includes our first taste of Springbok. The enthusiastic way in which we go about tackling our dinner is, I think fair to say, a decision we later regret. Having said that we sleep soundly and in the morning tackle a 6km walk across the retreat. Again the heat and the flies make the walk a little less than enjoyable and we are glad to arrive back at our chalet. This, however, proves to be the last bit of good cheer we enjoy for some considerable time as firstly Isaac, followed by mum and finally dad succumb to terrible bouts of vomiting and diarrhoea. During the long night (details not included for the benefit of squeamish) Isaac has by far of the worst of it and as concern for him mounts we become aware of some of the problems in being so isolated. Fortunately, we improve slightly by morning though none of us are ready to tackle food for another day.

1^st   September 2010 (Day 22)

We meet one of the other couples who ate with us on our first night at Barchan Dunes early the next morning and find that they have experienced similar problems!!!

We decide to leave as soon as possible and get back to Swakopmund to finish the southern section of our trip. We are looking forward to being in a town again and particularly to being able to contact friends and relatives as we have had virtually no internet connection or phone signal since heading south.

The views are again spectacular but the condition of the gravel roads are, given the state of our stomachs, of more concern to us. We are certainly glad to hit Walvis Bay and especially tarmac. Disappointment on the trip from Walvis Bay to Swakupmund as we stop to book Isaac in for dune boarding we are informed that he is too young, this coupled with his still dodgy stomach leads to a very disappointed 10 Yr old!!

We arrive in Swakupmond and head for the internet café to reacquaint ourselves with the outside world. On the way a local man tries to steal goods from Michele’s bag, her reaction leaves him a quivering wreck but the incident perhaps explains the loss of a bracelet that Michele has been looking for since our last stop in the town. We return to Ocean Villa by 4pm to meet Linda’s niece and after cheese on toast (largely untouched by Isaac who is still feeling the effects of Barchan Dune we are in bed watching a DVD by 6pm. Michele is last to dose at about 6:30 as we catch up on the missed sleep from the night of the shared toilet.

 2^nd   September 2010 (Day 23)

Breakfast at 8:30 but we are still not able to do it justice and so we decide a rest day is called for. Isaac returns to bed and watches 4385 separate films whilst mum and dad potter watching some films with him and catching up on their diaries. A pizza is bought at 5pm and Isaac successfully manages a slice before returning to bed closely followed by mum and dad. The promise of Rocky and sleep are very attractive.